How to Prune Fruit Trees in Pots: A Complete Guide
Growing fruit trees in pots can be one of the most rewarding gardening tricks! Whether you’re growing mango, fig, or lemon trees, you’ll be able to enjoy some fresh fruit from your own tree on your sunny patio, balcony, or porch.
As the tree’s roots are confined within the pot itself, you’ll have to prune the tree to keep it looking neat whilst allowing it to stay healthy. This will ensure that your tree stays nice and small and produces tasty fruit.
Why Prune Your Potted Tree?
Trees grown in the ground will have extensive root systems to reach more water and nutrients to feed their large canopy of leaves. Trees grown in pots will have less room and fewer nutrients.
By regularly pruning your tree, you’ll be able to:
- Even out the growth above ground by preventing the tree from wilting/stressing due to its limited root system.
- Allow plenty of sun penetration to allow even ripening of the fruit and a sweeter taste.
- Promote good airflow. The open canopy allows quick drying after rain, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
Materials Required
You won’t need lots of specialist tools. Just two things:
- Bypass hand pruners. These have sharp blades that cut cleanly without squishing.
- Rubbing Alcohol/Disinfectant Wipes. Always wipe your blades clean before you start pruning and also between trees to prevent spreading pests/diseases.
When to Prune
- January - February: Acid Lime, Meyer Lemon, Mosambi, Pomegranate, Custard Apple, Mulberry, Dwarf Apple, Peach
- April - May: Apple Ber, Grapes (Back/Foundation Prune)
- May - June: Guava (Winter Crop), Pomegranate (Hasta Bahar)
- July - August: Mango, Chikoo (Sapota), Starfruit
- September - October: Guava (Spring Crop)
- October - November: Fig, Grapes (Fruit Prune), Potted Papaya)
How to Prune Your Tree
1. Remove Destructive Growth
Look at your tree and remove any dead, damaged, or diseased growth.
- Cut back any dead growth to reveal healthy pale green growth. Any branches broken by strong winds or with scratches should be removed.
- This will instantly relieve stress on your tree.
2. Remove Suckers & Water Sprouts
Look at the bottom of your tree.
- Remove any suckers. These are thin green shoots that grow from the soil or trunk below the knobbly graft point (where the fruiting variety and rootstock meet).
- Remove any water sprouts. These are fast-growing vertical shoots that steal sap but do not produce any fruit.
3. Create an Open Canopy
Try to create an open goblet/vase shape. The fruit needs sun.
- Remove any branches that are crossing through the centre of the canopy, rubbing against other stems, or growing backwards towards the trunk.
- Remove the weaker of the two stems.
4. Cut Back the Outer Branches
- Cut just above an outward-facing bud.
- Cut back the remaining main lateral stems by around a quarter or third.
- Always cut at a 45-degree angle away from an outward-facing bud.
- If you cut above an outward-facing bud, then the next branch will grow away from the trunk. This will keep your tree open and bowl-like.
Don’t Forget to Thin the Fruit!
A common mistake people make when starting to grow plants in pots. Don’t let all the little fruits grow.
- A small tree in a pot may produce 40 little mangoes; however, there won’t be enough water and sugar in the small root system to fatten them up.
- Once the little fruits are marble-sized, thin them out. Only leave one or two in each cluster.
- Space them around 4-6 inches apart.
- Removing extra fruit will stop your branches snapping and will give you larger and juicier fruit.
Post Pruning Care
As pruning causes changes inside the tree, help it recover by:
- Giving it a good drink. Water the pot well so water is running out of the drainage holes.
- Don’t feed. Don’t feed your tree with high-nitrogen feeds straight after heavy dormant pruning. Nitrogen causes sudden growth of weak leafy growth.
- Wait until you see steady growth during spring and feed with a balanced slow-release fruit tree feed.
Pruning can be a bit stressful the first time you cut back healthy growth; however, fruit trees are very hardy. Cut back with intent and keep the airflow good, and your potted orchard will thrive on your deck for years!
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